Friday, October 12, 2012

Luther went a lot of places... want to come with us? Part 1


We were introduced to the life and times of Martin Luther with a she-banga-bang! We had muddled through his biography, titled Luther: Man Between God and the Devil by Heiko A. Oberman, the previous week in Paris and prepared our book report sleepily on a few late nights. The main consensus for the book seemed to be that it was confusing and focused on too many aspects of Luther’s life that were rather extraneous. 


We have to admit though, that Dr. Smith’s syllabus had us all on high-alert. Just imagine reading this before meeting the teacher:

"Students are expected to be respectful toward the professor and their classmates.  The amount of tuition one has paid for the class does not alter this expectation; no single student has proprietary ownership of the class, but the course as a whole and the classroom in particular are under the exclusive custody of the professor.  The following behaviors, therefore, are not tolerated: sleeping in class, engaging in personal conversations, passing notes, walking around the classroom, and leaving the classroom for any period of time without prior consent of the instructor.  Infractions in any of these areas will result in a variety of penalties – including but not limited to a verbal warning, which might be deeply embarrassing, dismissal from class for the day, a reduction in class participation grade, or a particular assignment given as punishment – to be administered at the professor’s discretion."

Not that we were used to sleeping in the classroom (... much), but still, this had us a bit on edge, understandably so. However, we quickly realized we had nothing to worry about. We mentioned our concerns to Coach and he mentioned that Dr. Smith had to prepare for the worst and seem as overbearing as possible, because it would be much easier to move from cracking down to easing up than the other way around. We understood and (tried) not to give him any reason crack down ;) I think we were successful... he said we were one of his favorite classes, so we were happy.

He was an awesome professor, loved his subject matter, loved teaching it, and loved sharing his insights and vast knowledge of history with us. One thing that particularly stood out to us was his dedication to writing all his class notes by hand either on the whiteboard or, in some classrooms, a giant notepad. He told us at the start that he didn’t like using electronic media, like powerpoint presentations, in his class because he felt that it was too visually over-stimulating. Jeanette and I both loved that, and totally admired how he could hand-write on the board, keep talking, know what he was going to write next, and stay on track. Powerpoint presentations are a lot of work, we don’t discredit that at all (because we’ve had to do them before as well!), but that is all pre-prepared, and takes the work out of knowing where you’re going in the presentation. Hand-writing everything as you go, however, means you have to know where you’re going, either in your head or on a separate outline. Either of which we admired the foresight of.

Our first day in the classroom, we learned about the major historical turning points and leaders of the Reformation. Doctor Smith took us from some very early church leaders, such as Augustine, Charlemagne, and several church councils down to Martin Luther, John Wycliffe, Jan Huss. We started out studying Augustine vs. Pelagius, Aquinas whose beliefs spurred the Augustinian monasteries, and several discussions about purgatory which was a very relevant issue in those times. We were introduced to Luther on the second day and dove into his character and life story the following day. His contemporaries, who began the first generation of Reformers, included Karlstadt, Munzter and Zwingli.

Luther was born in 1481; he attended four different schools and eventually achieved a Master’s degree. His father wanted him to pursue an ambitious career, but was sorely disappointed when his son instead moved to an Augustinian monastery in Erfurt following a scary encounter with God in a lightning storm. About ten years later, Luther began a strong questioning of his faith, studying the scriptures intently, and ultimately crafting the extremely controversial 95 Theses.




Contrary to popular belief, Luther was not advocating a separation from the Catholic church, but rather pointing out discrepancies he believed needed to be changed between the practice of the church (mainly regarding the practice of indulgences) and the doctrines presented in the Bible. Also contrary to popular belief, Luther did not post the list angrily on the town church door, instead he put them into common circulation within the town’s educated society for discussion. Someone from that circle then sent a copy of the list to a bishop, who eventually sent it to Rome to be “dealt” with by the Pope. He didn’t directly deal with it, but attacked Luther for having the audacity to interpret the Bible differently than the Pope himself, or for questioning official doctrine of the church. This started a chain of events that was to last almost Luther’s entire life, a virtual tug-of-war with the Roman Catholic Church. The church may have carried out its “punishments” on Luther to try and eradicate his opinions, but they have obviously lived through the centuries and had great influence on modern Christianity.

The first of the “punishments” was excommunication in 1520. However, does this stop Luther? Of course not. He burns the official decree, sent to him from Rome, essentially throwing his fist at the Pope’s face. Maybe not such a good move, but we learned that was just his style. April 1521 he was summoned to Worms to have a type of trial concerning his beliefs, which he (mistakenly) believed would be his chance at defense. He would clear up this misunderstanding by telling them how he didn’t mean to cause such an uproar, he only wanted to point out some things his own Bible reading had revealed to him. But unfortunately, the council was not in a listening mood. They asked him two questions. Quick and to the point. 1) Are these your books? and 2) Do you recant?  He asked for some time to think about what to say and was giving a day or two. When he returned, he calmly stated that they were his books. And went on to explain that though he perhaps had used language angering to the church authorities, and perhaps it wasn’t the most Christian way to share his opinion. However, he insisted there was nothing against the Bible in his books, and therefore, he ended with: Here I stand, I cannot do otherwise, so help me God.

He very soon had a price on his head, one worthy of a good disguise. A very wealthy friend, John Frederick, “kidnapped” and hid him in a magnificent castle (which there will be photos of later) and gave him the name Knight George as an alternate identity. He didn’t waste any time enjoying the view though, and took advantage of the solitude and interpreted the New Testament from the Erasmus's Greek New Testament into the common German of the day, which continues to be a very accurate version of the German Bible. That might seem an appropriate project for a few years, but no, he took eleven weeks. Workaholic?  We ended that week of class by learning Luther’s main beliefs of the faith.

Ulrich Zwingli was born in 1484 and was educated very well, ending his studies with a masters degree in 1506.  In 1518 he became a Leupriester (translated as “People’s Priest”) in the Grossmunster (the Great Church) of Zurich. Believing hypocrisy was one of the worst sins, he didn’t try to hide the fact that he was a womanizer. He highly advocated clerical marriage and led the way to it being an acceptable practice, eventually choosing one woman to be his wife. Later, in July  of 1522, Zwingli and 10 other priests petitioned a church authority for the right to marry and were turned down with the comment “Stop being so reformational.” In January 1519, he started a sermon series exposition of Matthew, which drew great criticism from the church leaders because he was bringing the Bible down to the level of the common parishioners. January of 1523, the first disputation of Zurich occurred, which placed much more power in the hands of the city council rather than with the church authorities. He died in 1531 in the battle of Kappel, after lying injured on the ground and refusing to confess his sins to a priest. His body was quartered and burned, the usual treatment for people convicted of treason.



Our next few days of class happened on the road across Germany.

John (Jean) Calvin started in the second generation of the reformation, known for its reflectivity. He was born in Noyon, France in a cathedral city.


He was never ordained and his father, Gerard, was a bishop in the church clerical system, offering him a wealthy background and upbringing. His father sent him to several schools in the hope he would become an ordained priest. Instead, he earned his masters degree from the College de Montaigu. During his schooling, Calvin’s father had a falling out with the church. As a result of the falling out (we can assume), Calvin changed his degree to Civil Law at the University of Orleans, earning it in 1533. Sometime between 1533 and 34, he was converted to a reformation faith and dedicated himself to a life of quiet scholarly study. Soon after, he was going through Geneva heading for Straussburg, known as a safe location for reformers. He ended up staying in Geneva for several years. After several moves, he led the Genevens to live more Christianly, banning the Catholic ritualism so prevalent in their culture and going so far as to punish those that did not attend Sunday services. He did not advocate violence to force belief, but he did advocate forcing people to at least listen to the word of God.



In summary, Luther focused on the word of God in a believer’s life, while Calvin focused on the spirit of God in the believer’s life.

Our last day, we did a basic overview of the English reformation, including William Tyndale and Miles Coverdale (he translated the Old Testament in English, complementing Tyndale’s English New Testament). This portion of the study centered on the divorce of King Henry VIII and the development of the Anglican church. John Knox brought Clavinism to the Scottish people, calling Calvin’s way of thinking the “perfect school of Christ.” The council of Trent was the bookend to the reformation, up to then there was hope that there would be reconciliation between Catholics and the Protestants.


Tuesday, May 29, 2012

There are a lot of languages out there... can you speak any of them? Part 2 Paris, France

After our wonderful night in the airport (haha), we caught our second RyanAir flight to Paris... or close to it.  About a 45 minute bus ride from Paris, we trekked into the city and tackled the metro system. As soon as we could find the station, that is. The bus terminal turned out to be very near the metro station, but the station was conveniently inside a huge building... and underground. And with everything in French (of which we knew basically zilch), that didn’t make it very easy to find. With the help of one of the few friendly French people we figured out what pass to get and then figured out what direction to go to get to our hostel.


The hostel, better known as Hotel Caulain Court, was discovered by Bethany and turned out to be a good option for us. The clerks were a bit... quirky to say the least :) One, we’re fairly certain, was fired while we were there.  So... it was weird.  We could leave our bags there, but couldn't check-in yet, we decided NOT to leave our bags there.  The fact that all the bags were left in the middle of the greeting area had absolutely nothing to do with our hesitation at leaving our bags there. Taking them with us, it felt like England all over again. Feeling like homeless nomads, we wandered down the street and found an old cemetery to sit in for a bit. Perfect time to do some reading in our Luther biography! After a bit of distracted reading, we walked around a bit more, then eventually wandered back toward the hotel and stopped at a little store and bought sandwiches. A perfectly French lunch, right? It did the job and didn’t break the bank, so that was good enough at that point.



At some point, 3 or 4 pm rolled around so we rolled around to the hotel and checked in. Our room was just big enough for the two bed spaces (one was a bunk bed, so we had 3 beds total), and we were blessed to have our own bathroom including a shower (just without a toilet, which we had to go down the hall for, go figure)! However, if any of us had been about 20 pounds heavier, we might not have fit into the bathroom at all :) Thankfully we were all just the right size to barely fit in there, close the door and be able to bend over only if we stuck half our bodies in the shower space first. It was a test of our dexterity skills... while dressing.






Dinner was definitely different.  I guess we hadn’t really gotten into the “Paris” mindset for food choices, because we picked a pizza place. Yeah, we definitely still had our American palates with us for this week. But when is pizza never a good choice? And this time we had the pleasure of having our food fresh! Very very fresh. So fresh in fact, that the guy making it asked a buddy of his to head off hurriedly on his motorcycle to fetch the salmon for our salmon pizza. It turned out to be more of a sushi salmon pizza... hmmm... welcome to Paris! Continuing our adventure, Stephen was getting in that night to join the fun. Getting him was... another adventure for another time :) But he did eventually make it to the hotel and enjoyed his few days with us!

Our day two started with finding Joy and Bethany, who had just flown in from Girona. We had such a time finding the metro station from the bus terminal the day before that we texted them directions then just decided to go get them ourselves. Our first stop took us straight to one of the main Paris locales: Avenue des Champs-Elysees which features the Arc de Triomphe.  That was one of the most impressive architectural structures in Paris.  It was huge!  And beautiful.  








It was quite the shopping center and we could understand why people go to Paris to shop after seeing that street. Louis Vuitton and Abercrombie and Fitch headquarters were only two of the major places we spotted along the way.

Next we dropped off Bethany and Joy’s bags at the hotel and picked up some food for dinner at the store once again. But for lunch, we had a treat of crepes at a tiny booth the girls had heard of. It was delicious :) After our first really decent Parisian food, we headed to what is perhaps the most iconic location in the entire world: the Eiffel Tower. We just had to. But not just once- apparently it took no less than three visits that week for us to get our fill.










Our next few days were really cool sight-seeing, but also very difficult in personal areas.  We got to go to the Musée d'Orsay, a museum I (Jeanette) was expecting to hate and ended up loving.  It houses permanent collections of impressionistic and post-impressionistic paintings.  Some of the more famous artists featured there are Van Gogh, Monet, Degas, and Millet.  








One of the most anticipated events of this day was going to a little café that was hardly known (and still has little fame even now) before its use in the 2010 blockbuster, Inception.  After some searching we found the location of said café and film set, Café Da Stuzzi, run by a very sweet French lady.  There was a bit of a wait there till tables were cleared, but we weren't about to leave without eating there!  So turns out that, what I thought was a "true" French restaurant is an Italian Trattoria.  We had a wonderful time enjoying an Italian meal in France on a former movie set.  : )  The owner, being a discerning French woman who can spot foreigners at a glance, asked, knowing the answer, if we were there because of the movie.  We sheepishly answered yes, hoping she wouldn't hate us.  Thankfully, we were both talking about the same “movie.” She replied that she had a surprise for us when we were done with our lunch (at which I, Chelsea, strongly suspected, or hoped, that Leonardo DiCaprio would come out of the cafe any second). Although our surprise wasn’t anything quite as exciting as meeting Leo, we did get a nice production photo of his scene there at the cafe.

What it actually looks like...
What they did to it in the movie...

We were up on the clouds as we left for the Louvre.  Once we got to the world famous (humongous) Musée du Louvre it had an hour and a half till closing time.  Don't hate us for taking only that amount of time there.  ; )  We know that that miniscule amount of time does not amount to us actually "going to the Louvre."  We did, however, see the (disappointing) Mona Lisa and just a few other things that were more impressive in our (tired) minds.  We found out that The Thinker is NOT there despite what you may have heard, though apparently it is in Paris somewhere. The museum’s non-painting collection was quite impressive too, including Charlemagne and King Louis XV’s crowns. We spent the last 20 minutes running around trying to find some paintings that I (Jeanette) knew about; The Lacemaker (by Vermeer) and The Cheat (by Georges de La Tour).







After the run through the museum, we had a beautiful walk right at sunset through the parks adjoining the museum. Margaret wanted to try and duplicate a photo of her Mom, taken a few decades previously, at a fountain somewhere in Paris, so we went in search of the fountain. We eventually found A fountain, which was beautiful (especially with the evening sun shining on it, lighting up all the gold), and had a photo-op.




Our fourth day in Paris felt a bit more laid back although we still did a lot! It was Stephen’s last day with us before he headed off to Vienna for the last few days of the week, and we made sure to hit his last requests of Notre Dame and the French Quarter of the city.









We enjoyed looking around the inside, and luckily, someone very talented was playing the organ and we got to hear a couple of very amazing songs. One of Bethany’s biggest dreams was to take a tour of Notre Dame, and head up to the top of the cathedral to enjoy the Hunchback and Notre Dame perspective. So she took that tour while we explored the French Quarter.


After the French Quarter exploration, it was time to go back to Caulain Court, grab Stephen’s things and bid him farewell! We had a farewell picture with all of us eating some macaroons outside the train station. Stephen, as we found quickly, was a connoisseur of many things, good food being one of them, and he bought the macaroons and kindly offered us each one :)

With Stephen safely on his way to Vienna (mostly to Freud’s couch, no doubt), the girls decided this was the perfect time to head to the top of the Eiffel Tower! We weren’t sure exactly what the price was, and the line was horrifically long, but we persevered and went all the way up! There are two levels, each separate prices. Level 2 can be accessed by stairs (uh yeah, right) for a reduced price and the very top is only accessible by elevator. We went all out (paid the price for it too!) and went to the top!  It was AMAZING! Even the ride to the top was amazing in the completely glass elevators, offering an ever-changing view of the entire city. I, Jeanette, was in awe of the engineering of this structure. And thankfully no one in the group was dreadfully afraid of heights.  The view was absolutely incredible.  You could see all of Paris from the Arc de Triomph to the "spokes" coming out from it to the Louvre. It rather vaguely reminded Chelsea of the Seattle Space Needle, except on a much larger scale, obviously and minus the cloudy skies.







Around this time, we decided it was time to find some good gelato, so we headed to a recommended location off the Pigalle stop of the subway and it was amazing gelato!! Definitely one of the top three for Chelsea and Jeanette. Not only delicious, but beautifully served as well, in flower formation on the cone :)


Later that night our group wanted to see the lights on the Eiffel Tower. No, two times seeing it clearly wasn’t enough. So, we headed out for our third and last trip to possibly the most iconic manmade edifice in the world.  We had the Subway down for this trip! We knew the Tower was lit up with blinking lights every hour for a few minutes on the hour, but just barely missed it when we first got off the subway. It was so beautiful though, that we easily stuck around the additional hour to see it in its full display.







Although seeing it three times seemed a bit excessive, seeing it lit up was pretty special and I think we’re glad we did. The only drawback to the Tower nightlife were the rampant less-than-legal vendors on every corner (and between corners, and between the ones who were between corners and... you get the point) who fled the scene as soon as a cop came anywhere near. Thankfully we didn’t stay out too late, heading back to the hotel at a reasonable hour to get lots of sleep for our last day in Paris!  Which we spent movie location scouting.  : )

Our last day in Paris started with lack of communication.  The two girls that were staying just outside the city had run out of cell phone minutes so they were receiving our texts but could not return any.  I, Jeanette, wanted to see the Bastille monument where the French Revolution had begun with the storming of the Bastille.  So that was our first memorable stop of the day! The monument was simple, a tall column, topped with a golden figure, shining in the sun and very pretty though quite understated.






After a bit of run-around, we found the girls and headed off to the next film location, used in both Inception and National Treasure 2. We were surprised to find we had walked right next to the bridge the previous night on the way back to the hotel. This was the "mirror" bridge where Ariadne uses her skills of architecture during one of the dream sequences of the film in which Dom introduces her to the dream world. It is also the bridge where Ben Gates and Riley Poole look at the miniature Statue of Liberty in Paris, (supposedly) right next to said bridge. Before heading off to find the mini Statue of Liberty we stopped for lunch.  







National Treasure being filmed on the bridge...

The Statue is, in fact, not within eyesight of the bridge, although fairly close by. A very kind (and talkative) Parisian lady told us about the statue and its location, so we went to look for it next. A good little walk down the river brought us to the statue, a fun thing to see, thinking of Riley’s little helicopter flying around it :)







Being very near the end of our trip, Bethany and Joy decided to try and find a suitable gift for friends back home before we headed back to our home in Regensburg. We went all over the place and saw several cute and... slightly strange shops! Straight from our shopping trip, we headed back to the airport to our next and final night in the Girona airport :)  Three nights in an airport was definitely not the highlight, but it does save on money.  

Next morning, we flew back to Munich and braved the onslaught of the Oktoberfest masses. Which made the train ride back to our home interesting. Not unsafe... just interesting! Suffice it to say, Oktoberfest brought out some of the less savory characters of Munich and Germany’s populace. Some of our classmates, however, enjoyed the festivities from a cultural standpoint. We wanted to avoid the crowds, some of which was clearly unavoidable as our arrival at Munich train station showed us.  

Final destination: hostel sweet hostel... oh how we missed thee :)  We made it home. Just in time for another week of class and then our second academic tour that took us throughout Germany in the footsteps of Martin Luther! And brought a taste of home to Jeanette!